Born to Rum: Smuggler's Cove opening

Smuggler's Cove is arguably the most anticipated bar opening of 2009. But does it live up to the hype?

I knew the opening of Smuggler's Cove, the new rum-inspired tiki bar in Hayes Valley, would be a scene. But I didn't expect 30 people to be queued up down Gough—nearly curled around McAllister—to drink fruity cocktails in a pirate-themed bar. I'm not sure what passersby thought of the long line outside the unmarked, tinted entryway at 4:45 on a cold Tuesday evening. We were either in line for food stamps or totally obsessed with cocktails. They aren't mutually exclusive, but on this night we happened to be the latter.

Owner Martin Cate opened the doors around 5:15, just after the thirsty line let out a collective grumble. Cate had a small flask around his neck, in which he kept about three fingers of dark rum.

"So I can keep an even keel," he said, one eye half open as he took a sip. He looked tired, probably because he'd been working on the theme park—er, bar—for at least six months. The former home of Jade Bar, this compact three-level space (Cate says capacity is about 60) looks like the crowded cabin of Jack Sparrow's vessel.

Ropes, nets, barrels, lanterns (the glowing blowfish are my favorite), treasure chests, fish traps, and buoys hang from the ceiling. The walls are covered in dark-wood panels and plastered with menus and other keepsakes from San Francisco's tiki bars of yore, Trader Vic's and Tiki Bob to name two. A huge anchor hangs above the spiral staircase that leads to the second bar downstairs, where bar stars Jackie Patterson and Dominic Venegas are whipping up drinks. From beachy classics like Cuba libres and mojitos to originals like the Painkiller (it's as strong as it sounds), the thoughtful menu features over 70 cocktails. Note: This is not the place to order a martini. I tried the Port Royal, a spicy Jamaican rum drink with "Hellfire tincture," which Patterson administered with a pipette. It was delicious; sweet with an equatorial spice that didn't overpower the rum.

With all the Caribbean tchotchkes, calypso music, flower-print shirts, and tiki mugs (available for purchase), Smuggler's Cove has tons of potential to be the kind of cheesy bar you'd find at Disney World. But it's not. You can tell that Cate put a lot of thought, time, and effort into his brainchild. And though I'm slightly turned off by the fawning press—"the greatest tiki bar on earth," really?—I think Smuggler's Cove is going to be one of my go-to spots.

Just as soon as the hype dies down.

Smuggler's Cove: 650 Gough Street. smugglerscovesf.com